Knitting with Cotton: What You Need to Know

Cotton gets a bad rap in the knitting world. It’s often dismissed as stiff, unyielding, or just not as nice as wool—but if you’ve ever worn a soft, breathable cotton sweater, you know it’s every bit as nice and completely worth the effort.

Mode’s new Cotton DK is a beautiful example of what cotton can be—a well-constructed yarn with a lovely twist that gives it excellent stitch definition. It’s crisp but not harsh, soft but not flimsy. And best of all, cotton garments are true multi-season pieces—light enough for spring and summer, but easy to layer in cooler months.

But knitting with cotton does require some adjustments. Because it lacks the elasticity of wool, it behaves a little differently on the needles and in the finished garment. Understanding these differences before you cast on will help you get the best possible results.

10 Things You Need to Know About Knitting with Cotton

1. You May Need to Go Down a Needle Size

Because cotton lacks elasticity, it tends to knit up a little looser than wool at the same needle size. If you’re substituting cotton for a wool-based pattern, you might need to go down a needle size to get gauge and achieve the correct fabric density.

2. Cotton Has No Loft

Wool fibers naturally trap air, which gives wool yarns their loft. Cotton, by contrast, has no loft—it’s denser and smoother. This means that cotton garments can be heavier than their wool counterparts.  Worsted or heavier weights, especially, can feel quite substantial.

3. Longer-Staple Cottons Are Softer

Cotton fibers come in different lengths. Longer-staple cottons (like Pima or Egyptian cotton) are naturally softer because they require less twist to hold together. Mode DK Cotton has a balanced twist that enhances stitch definition while still feeling soft against the skin.

4. Cotton Loves Texture

While cotton might not be as springy as wool, it excels in textured stitch patterns. Seed stitch, garter stitch, and even simple stockinette look crisp and defined. If you want cables, go for larger motifs with strong lines so they stand out.

5. Cotton Stockinette Curls Less Than Wool

Because of cotton’s lack of elasticity, stockinette fabric in cotton doesn’t curl as much at the edges as wool stockinette does. This means you can get away with some of those modern, minimalist designs that have little or no ribbing or edge trim—something that’s harder to pull off in a wool sweater!

6. Blocking is a Must

Because cotton doesn’t have natural memory, blocking is key to helping your finished garment relax into its best shape. Wet blocking is usually best, as it allows the fibers to settle. If your fabric feels stiff after blocking, a gentle tumble (low heat, short time) can soften it up—just be careful not to overdo it!

7. Cotton Can Be Machine Washed—But Be Careful About Drying

Most cotton yarns are machine washable, but that doesn’t mean they’re dryer-friendly. Heat can shrink cotton unpredictably, so lay flat to dry whenever possible. If you must use the dryer, choose low heat and check often.

8. Cotton sweaters can be very long-lasting

Most cotton and cotton blend yarns are pretty durable, especially mercerized cotton, which will withstand machine wash after machine wash and still look great.  So don't think knitting cotton sweater is a waste of time

9. Cotton Yarns Are Great for Warm Weather & Sensitive Skin

Wool can sometimes be too warm or irritating for sensitive skin, but cotton is cool, breathable, and hypoallergenic. It’s a perfect choice for summer tops, baby knits, and anyone who finds wool itchy.  If you live, as we do, in a moderate climate, you'll find cotton garments to be a perfect year round choice

10. It’s Worth the Effort!

Knitting with cotton may take some getting used to, but the results are completely worth it. A beautifully knit cotton sweater will last for years, becoming softer and more comfortable with wear. And with Mode Cotton DK’s designs, it's never been easier to create timeless, year-round pieces.

Ready to Try It?

If you’ve been hesitant about knitting with cotton, there are several beautiful cottons in the shop that might just change your mind.  Or course, there's new Mode Cotton DK as well as a new very different cotton from Rowan coming out next month. 

Have you knit with cotton before? Do you have any tips or favorite patterns? I’d love to hear about your experience! Share your thoughts in the comments!