Choosing the Right Size for Set-In Sleeve Cardigans

Choosing what size to knit is the first and often most confusing part of sweater knitting. We’re expected to choose based on a single measurement—our full bust. But our body is so much more than that one piece of information.

I wish I could tell you that there was a magic number to use to choose the right size for you, but the truth is that there are lots of factors that go into the decision. Much of it is about ease, and that is closely tied to garment construction styles.

If you’re not sure what I mean by that, go have a look at this video where I talk about the different construction styles so we’re all on the same page.

Set-In Sleeve Cardigans: Where to Start

Since there is a trend toward more set-in sleeve cardigans, especially in Rowan Magazine 76, their collection for AW2024-2025, I thought maybe we should start there.

I talk a lot about negative ease and how most of us like more of it than we think we do, but with a set-in sleeve cardigan, we want to be a little more careful about negative ease. Remember that negative ease means that the garment is smaller than your body at a particular point, and the fabric stretches across that area to accommodate.

Choosing the Right Size for Set-In Sleeve Cardigans

A set-in sleeve garment is more close-fitting, so there’s automatically less generosity in the fit. Add to that the fact that no one wants a buttoned cardigan that pulls and gaps across our bust or anyplace else.

We need to choose a size that is going to be large enough to fit across our largest spot (typically our bust or belly) without gaping. That means you will want to choose the size with a finished measurement at least as large as the largest part of your torso.

Adjusting for a Proper Shoulder Fit

If you are busty, you may find that this size gives you a shoulder that’s much too wide. As I said last week, in a set-in sleeve garment, shoulder fit is everything, so you will want to adjust your shoulder width to get the right fit for your frame. It’s an easy fix you’ll make by continuing your armhole decreases until the shoulder width is the size you need.

Crazy, right?

But trust me when I tell you that this is what you want to do.

The Impact of a Simple Adjustment

This one simple choice and adjustment will dramatically improve the fit of set-in sleeve cardigans you knit.

There are, of course, other things you want to do to improve fit: lengthening or shortening the garment, adjusting armhole depth, and choosing an alternate sleeve size, but getting the right size at the start will take you a long way towards a great fit.

I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments. Tell me about any experience you’ve had with size choice, or if there are questions you’d like me to address.

Warmly,

Ellen